Landscape Design Team Member -- Mikenzie Norwood

All of us here at Nature's Cradle would like to welcome Mikenzie Norwood to our landscape design team! 

Here is her introduction:

Mikenzie on-site at an installation

A small backyard installation in Queens

Hi -- I moved to New York in 2008 and received a Master’s degree in Landscape Design from Columbia University in 2011. I have been designing rooftop gardens and brownstone backyards in Manhattan for the past several years, and am excited to be designing on a larger scale for Nature's Cradle clients.

In addition to my design degree, I have taken extensive classes in botany at the New York Botanical Garden and studied horticulture at Harvard’s Arnold Arboretum in Boston. 

My designs center around the existing 'sense of place' of a landscape, and aim to enhance both its beauty and functionality. I love using a broad plant palette, with plant combinations highlighting the inspiring and enchanting qualities of the natural world. 

Working in Manhattan offered plenty of opportunities for container design

Mikenzie's fire escape garden

I share Nature's Cradle's green philosophy and incorporate native plants into my designs whenever possible. I hope my enthusiasm about plants and design is contagious and that, through working with me, my clients gain a new appreciation of their outdoor space.

I have fallen in love with southern Westchester county, and am in the process of purchasing an apartment in the area. In my free time I enjoy hiking, gardening, sketching, bad reality tv, and reading about plants:)

Rain Water Recycling

It is easy to think about harvesting your rainwater on a day like today.  Why let all that storm-water runoff  confound an already overwhelmed and outdated sewer system.  Collect, store and use that rainwater for your garden!  Your plants and the planet will love you for it.

Sometimes, during heavy rain and snow storms, combined sewers receive higher than normal flows. Treatment plants are unable to handle flows that are more than twice design capacity and when this occurs, a mix of excess storm water and untreated waste water discharges directly into the City’s waterways at certain outfalls. This is called a combined sewer overflow (CSO). We are concerned about CSOs because of their effect on water quality and recreational uses.   Do your part; use a rain-barrel or rainwater collection system.  

At Nature's Cradle we can capture up to 7000 gallons of rain water per rain event.  Of course we have loads more plants to water than you all, but even if you capture 50 or 100 gallons it will help.  And your flowers and will smile wonderful blooms in thanks for that sweet natural rain water.

 Benefits of Using a Rain Barrel

• Saves money. Some households devote almost 40% of their summer water consumption to irrigation needs. Using stored rainwater to water your lawn or garden can reduce your household water usage, which may help save you money on your water bill.
• Improves harbor water quality. By diverting stormwater from the sewer system during rainy days, a rain barrel decreases stormwater run-off which carries pollutants from paved surfaces into groundwater and rivers.
• Keeps your plants healthy. Plants prefer non-chlorinated organic rainwater—it is one of the best ways to keep your garden or lawn healthy all summer long.
• Free car washes. Use stored rainwater to keep your car clean at no cost.
• Eco-friendly and sustainable. Capturing and using your own rainwater is an easy step towards sustainability, lowers your carbon foot print, and teaches conservation. 

Many communities in the United States face serious threats to a safe,steady supply of water. These include a longstanding reliance on centralized water delivery systems that results in urban areas and agencies largely overlooking opportunities to integrate alternate local sources of water to meet their water supply needs; the unnecessary use of potable water for non-potable uses, such as outdoor landscape irrigation and indoor
toilet flushing; climate change; and continually increasing areas of impervious surfaces in our landscape that result in storm water runoff carrying pollution to our rivers, lakes, and beaches. Although the problems of water supply and water pollution can be complex, practical solutions for both are available now, such as
capturing and using rainwater from rooftops. Rooftop rainwater capture is a simple, cost-effective approach for supplying water that promotes sustainable water management. By using rainwater rather than allowing it to run off of paved surfaces to pick up pollutants and carry them to nearby surface waters. The practice provides numerous benefits: an Inexpensive, on-site supply of water that can be used for outdoor non-potable uses with little, if any, treatment, or for a variety of additional uses including potable supply with appropriately higher levels of treatment. Reduced (or no) energy and economic costs associated with treating and delivering potable water to end users because capture systems often use low-volume, non-pressurized, gravity fed systems or require only the use of a low power pump for supply. Reduced strain on existing water supply sources. Reduced runoff that would otherwise contribute to storm water
flows, a leading cause of surface water pollution and urban flooding

Water quality and its potential impact on human health is a consideration when using rooftop rainwater
capture. While rooftop runoff may contain pollutants, these pollutants are generally found in significantly lower concentrations and without many of the toxic contaminants that may be picked up by the rooftop runoff after it mobilizes off-site and flows over other impervious surfaces such as streets and parking lots. Overall, limiting rainwater use to non-potable applications such as toilet or urinal flushing, or hose bibs (or wall spigots) for irrigation water “presents little human health risk,” according to the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency.  With proper care, rooftop rainwater capture can be a useful part of a holistic 21st Century water policy.

http://www.nrdc.org/water/files/rooftoprainwatercapture.pdf

Please follow the above link to read the full article from the National Resources Defense Council for a more complete explanation of the need for rainwater recycling.

March Gardening Tips

March Gardening Tips:

 

Begin to clean out the debris in your garden beds. Be careful not to damage any emerging bulbs or perennials. To avoid spreading disease, be sure to bag all leaves and other debris and throw it away.

Plant pansies! Perfect pansy plants are arriving daily.

Give your lawn a good raking to remove winter's debris and thatch.  Heavy raking of a wet lawn will only tear the grass out of the soil, so do wait until it is dry.  We recommend a 24" Steel Leaf Rake for this job!
Test the pH of your lawn.  The pH is a measure of the relative acidity or alkalinity of the soil. The scale runs from 0 to 14, with lower numbers indicating more acidic soil. A pH of 7 is neutral. The ideal pH for lawn grasses is 6.5 to 7.0. It is within this range that the grass roots will absorb the important nutrients they need most efficiently. If needed, lime can be applied to raise the pH.  Stop by with the results of your pH test and we will help you determine how much lime you need for your lawn.

Believe it or not, it is already time to look for weeds!   Remove annual winter weeds like chickweed, bitter cress, and annual bluegrass before they go to seed.
 

Deer, rabbits and squirrels are hungry after a long winter, and your newly emerging bulbs and perennials look like candy to them!  Protect them with organic animal repellents.  We can help you choose the right product for your particular garden.
 

Bulbs are also hungry after a long winter! Feed them with an organic bulb food high in phosphorous to give them a healthy start to the season.

Use a Horticultural Spray Oil on insect eggs, and eliminate one problem before it starts!  This is a great product, but it does have some weather and plant restrictions, so please be sure to check with our garden experts for advice.

Finish pruning grapevines and fruit trees, except peaches and apricots, which are pruned after flowering. Raspberry canes that produced last year can be cut back and new canes can be topped off.
Fertilize rhubarb and asparagus with a general purpose organic fertilizer or cow manure.

Peas are traditionally planted in the middle of the month, but with our cold, wet weather the soil had not been ready. We hope conditions are ready soon, but be careful not to sow them if the soil is too wet and cold as they will rot. Other vegetables that can be planted directly from seed or plants outdoors now are: onions, kale, cabbage, beets, spinach, cauliflower, broccoli, arugula, chives, parsley.  Spring vegetables are arriving daily, ready to plant in your garden!

Prune roses after bud break. Remove all dead wood and crossed branches rubbing against each other. Try to prune so the bush grows outward so as to allow for good air movement.
Start spraying roses as soon as the canes leaf out to prevent insect and disease problems.
 

Near the end of the month, begin feeding acid-loving evergreens (azaleas, rhododendrons, and holly) with Hollytone.
 

As the days continue to lengthen, begin pruning summer and fall blooming shrubs, such as buddleia, caryopteris, rose of Sharon, etc.

SPRING IDEAS FOR THAT SHADY CORNER IN YOUR YARD:

SPRING IDEAS FOR THAT SHADY CORNER IN YOUR YARD:

Polygonatum (Solomon Seal) is a lovely woodland plant to add to your shade garden. Its dainty flowers will bloom in spring and its airy leaf structure can be a pleasant backdrop  to your summer garden display; the variegated  variety will grab more attention. Its rhizomes slowly spread if the soil is sufficiently rich and moist.

Polemonium (Jacob’s Ladder) is a clumping plant that will brighten up your woodland garden when the variegated variety is used. It does need moisture to keep looking good.  It has lovely little blue flowers in the spring, but its foliage is definitely its selling point.

Pulmonaria (lungwort) is known for its large, spotted leaves from which spring pretty bright colored pink to blue and purple flowers in the spring.

Myosotis (Forget Me Nots) can take full sun if sufficiently moist; otherwise part shade will do. Moisture also extends the bloom time. Is technically a biennial that readily reseeds and will spread throughout the garden.  Forget-me-nots are a pleasing early season cover to your garden that will be overtaken by the summer perennials that will begin to push out and tower over these low plants. New plants will pop up here and there and if not disturbed, will return in full force next spring!

Organic Vegetable Gardening

We are all dreaming  about spring and summer now.  Growing a bountiful organic vegetable garden that nourishes a healthy lifestyle, or a gorgeous flower garden that nourishes the soul, are goals almost anyone can reach with some basic education of what is required.  We just got in some lovely Swiss Chard at Nature's Cradle and we are ready to begin cold weather vegetable gardening.  Here are a few tips.

1. Sun & Shade? Plants that produce fruits require plenty of sun. At least six hours daily for tomatoes, cucumbers, zucchini, peppers, beans, corn, eggplant, summer squash and cabbage. In general, the bigger the fruit, the more sunlight it must have. There are many vegetables and herbs that do well in shaded areas, needing only about 4 hours of sun per day. Try carrots, beets, chard, cauliflower, chives, lettuce, arugula, basil, mint or spinach in these shady areas. For leafy green vegetables, less sunlight is fine.
2. Drainage: Sandy soils drain too quickly and clay soils too slowly. Adding organic materials help to correct and balance both types of soil.
3. Watering: Most plants are 90 percent water, 60 percent of which is delivered from the soil to the plant through root hairs. To keep the plants healthy and thriving you must have a good soil with plenty of organic matter to act like a sponge and allow the almost microscopic roots to travel through porous, well-drained soil.

Bright Lights Swiss Chard

Patrick Skiing the Grand Teton March 14 2013

Had a wonderful day skiing the Grand with a few friends the other day. This was the first time skiing it for all of them and they killed it! Here's the trip report Aaron wrote up.

After a couple mishaps trying to get partners (Get that car fixed Spank!) two friends and I met in town and headed to the park in the we hours of the morning. On the drive we laughed at the fact that while we our way to go skiing while people were still stumbling out of the Tavern. We arrived at the trail head half asleep only to find another car with a solo skier also hoping to ski the Grand. He introduced himself as Patrick from Kelly and left a couple minutes ahead of us. We caught up with him quickly and by the time we had reached the western shore of Bradley Lake our group had become a group of four.

Everything you need for a good quality adventure


Half awake, we cruised up Garnet Canyon to the meadows where we were greeted by wet slide debris covering parts of the old skin trail and firm, crusty surfaces that made for tricky skinning. Guess it was time to wake up a bit.

Halfway up the moraine 3 of the group gave up on the skin track and started bootpacking. Brian had brought his ski crampons (smart man!) and pushed the skin track to the bottom of the Tepee. We stashed skins, water, and some food at the bottom of the Tepee and headed for the Col.



We reached the col as the Sun came over the horizon, a much welcome sight indeed.



From the col we had great views to the east as well as west into Idaho. As if we needed a reminder The Grand reminded us of is size by casting a shadow over Teton Valley. It was pretty cool and not something I get to see everyday.



We hung out in the sun for awhile while we sorted gear for the climb ahead. While we took in some vitamin d one of our group (who will go unnamed ) called in sick from work. I guess this skiing the Grand qualifies as "being sick". Right?

The bottom of the Stettner was quite boney. I dont think it really sees enough sun to form good ice until later on in the year. Due to the lack of ice we soloed over a couple rock steps to the bottom of the Chevy. Luckily the Chevy was quite the opposite of the Stettner and was full of quality ice. From the bottom we could see 3 vertical steps between 5 and 7ft tall with mixed ice and snow in between. We decided as a group to belay the first pitch and off we went.

Brian enjoying good climbing in the Chevy


Brian tackles the crux


The second half of the Chevy was quite filled in and climbed unroped to the base of the Ford. We found relatively good climbing conditions (firm) in the Ford and we were off and running.



As we neared the SE ridge, the altitude caught up with me and I slowed down and gave up the trailbreaking. the two Montana boys took it from there to the summit while our new friend Patrick brought up the rear.





We reached the summit and took in the views.

South looking pretty good as did North.






My sick friend and I down climbed off the summit block a couple feet while Brian and Patrick scratched a true descent from the summit.


We all regrouped on the SE ridge before dropping into the Ford proper.



Patrick and friend ready to enter Ford Couloir.

3 Raps later and ~5k ft more of skiing everything from breakable crust to pow to mush we were back at the car





Hope you enjoyed!

Kitchen Composting Do's and Don'ts

 1. Compost = Managed Decomposition

Compost happens, but…the process may happen quicker if it is managed and visited more often. What is most important is to design a system that fits into your lifestyle. It takes as much, or as little work as you want to put into it. Consider where you place your bin and if you plan on turning, or having a static pile.

2. Balance by observing WONC(Water, Oxygen, Nitrogen, Carbon)

Most composting issues come from an imbalance of Water/Oxygen or Nitrogen/Carbon content.  For every unit of green material (fresh scraps) THREE TIMES the amount should be added in brown material (leaves, straw, sawdust, shredded newspaper).

3. You can compost anything biological, but…

It is not recommended to compost items such as meat, dairy, oils, pet wastes, in a small- scale system. These are considered “advanced” items and are only safe in larger scale operations.

DO COMPOST

DON'T COMPOST

All your vegetable and fruit wastes, (including rinds and cores) even if they are moldy and ugly Old bread, donuts, cookies, crackers, pizza crust, noodles: anything made out of flour! Grains (cooked or uncooked): rice, barley, you name it Coffee grounds, tea bags, filters Fruit or vegetable pulp from juicing Old spices Outdated boxed foods from the pantry Egg shells (crush well) Corn cobs and husks (cobs breakdown very slowly)

Meat or meat waste, such as bones, fat, gristle, skin, etc. Fish or fish waste Dairy products, such as cheese, butter, cottage cheese, yogurt, cream cheese, sour cream, etc. Grease and oils of any kind Why can't you compost these food wastes? They imbalance the otherwise nutrient-rich structure of other food and vegetation waste and breakdown slowly They attract rodents and other scavenging animals Meat attracts maggots Your compost bin will smell to holy hell and back!

I keep a covered 5 gal can in the kitchen and throw acceptable food waste right into that can until it is full enough (or smelly enough) to take it out to the compost bin in the back-yard.  Nature's Cradle can build and/or install any size or type of compost bin in your garden.  And, as always our designers will keep an eye on the aesthetic impact on your garden.  We will make sure your compost bin is as beautiful as the plants that will grow in your compost enriched garden soil.

Lawn Watering Tip: a total of one-inch of water per week, including rainfall...Deep, not Shallow

Expert Advice

How to Have the Best Lawn in Town

Posted on March 13, 2014

According to Tony Langlois of Jonathan Green, anyone can have the best lawn in town – provided you use the right seed. Tony’s favorite seed is Black Beauty. Here’s why:

Black Beauty Grass Seed Mixture

• Contains three exceptionally dark-green black beauty fescues.
• Grows well in sunny and shady areas and in many different soil types.
• Provides a more vigorous and drought/heat tolerant lawn.
• Grass roots grow very deep.
• Planted by lead sod growers in the USA.
• Contains endophytes for improved insect resistance.

 In addition to a good grass seed, apply a good lawn fertilizer like Jonathan Green’s Natural Beauty Organic Lawn Fertilizer. It’s great for establishing a newly seeded lawn and is safe to use around children and pets.
 Another helpful product to use is named “MAG-I-CAL”. It increases the ability of plants to utilize nutrients by helping you to reach a desirable pH level, so be sure to first have your soil pH tested before applying. (Hicks will test your soil pH for free)
 If you have heavy, compacted soil, try to loosen heavy, compacted soils and release “tied-up” nutrients in the soil. It contains humic and fulvic acids, calcium, sulfur, iron and molasses – which helps to make the soil more alive and porous.
  
Lawn Watering Tips:

A total of one-inch of water per week, including rainfall, is desirable. Watering deeply two or three times a week in the morning is most beneficial to your lawn, encouraging deep root growth. Avoid refquent watering for short periods of time and avoid watering at night, which promotes lawn disease outbreaks.

Healthy soil is crumbly, brown and alive with earthworms and beneficial microbes.

Originally presented by

The Espoma Company

Why Good Soil and Organics?

 The Basics:

• Healthy Soil = Healthy Plants
• Healthy soil is crumbly, brown and alive with earthworms and beneficial microbes.
• Healthy soils allow roots to grow deep and become resistant to drought and stress.
• Best defense against pests and stress is a healthy plant which means healthy soil.
• Replace synthetics with organics for healthy soil.

 Benefits of Using Bio-Tone® Plant Food

Bio-tone® is a natural microbe enhanced plant food that is great for difficult soil conditions. It promotes bigger blooms and reduces transplant loss. It contains mycorrhizae, which work to stimulate root growth. Expect bigger roots for increased water uptake as well as increased resistance to disease when you use Bio-tone.

The Importance of pH

pH is very important to the plants you grow. An improper won’t allow the plant to utilize the nutrients available in the soil. Therefore, correcting your soils pH will help to create healthier, happier plants.

 Most plants thrive in neutral soil (7.0). Acid-loving plants such as rhododendrons and azaleas prefer a ph of about 5.5. To raise the ph, add dolomitic lime (not hydrated lime). To lower the pH, add sulfur (not aluminum sulfate). Hicks Nurseries will test your soil at no cost.

Tips for Planting Success

• Choose native plants that will thrive with less care.
• Plant in a location with appropriate sun exposure – plants or lawns.
• Consider timing – Fall and Spring are ideal planting times.
• Garden beds should be rich in organic matter; add topsoil or compost if necessary.

 

When Planting:

• Dig a hole twice as wide and slightly deeper than the root ball.
• Loosen root ball.
• Amend soil with organic matter such as peat moss, compost or garden soil.
• Mix Espoma Bio-Tone Starter Plus* into the amended soil.
• Water thoroughly.
• Mulch – do not mound it around the stem.

 *Benefits of Bio-Tone Starter Plus:

Noticeably larger plants with larger root mass

Much more likely to thrive after transplanting

  

Tips for Planting in Clay Soil:

• Heavy clay soils are too compact for roots to grow.
• Add Soil Perfector – all natural soil conditioner made from expanded slate.
• Each granule holds the perfect amount of water, air and nutrients.
• Won’t break down – 1 application permanently improves soil.
• Ideal product for new  plantings in the ground or containers.

 

The Organic Vegetable Garden

 A Little planning to get started:

• Location – should be full sun exposure.
• Decide what you want to grow.
• Decide if you want to start from seed or by transplants.
• How do you want to layout the garden?

 Planting the Garden:

• Remember full sun exposure
• Prepare the soil with Bio-Tone Starter Plus.
• Plant when the temperatures are right.
• Water.
• Feed monthly with Garden-Tone.

 Organic Garden Care

• Trees & Shrubs – feed spring and fall.
• Flowers & Vegetables – feed once per month though the growing season.
• Sprinkle plant food on the soil evenly (like salt and pepper)
• Follow directions – if 1 cup is good, 2 cups is not better.
• Water thoroughly after application.

Benefits of an Organic Lawn Program

Safe for children and pets.

Won’t burn lawns or leach out of soil.

Preventing Weeds with Corn Gluten

• Corn gluten is a natural byproduct from the manufacturing of corn starch for food.
• Keeps lawns green. (contains 9% nitrogen)
• Inhibits root development in seedlings.
• Apply early spring and fall.
• Do not use if seeding within 60 days.
• Safe for children and pets.

Want to chase those Winter Blues away?

Bring spring inside with a few snips of your favorite springtime bloomer! Forsythia is a dramatic and easy one to try; flowering trees are another great source of color. Lovely shiny little green leaves will emerge from red twig dogwood branches and it may root for you as well!
Following is a link for further information. Don't hesitate to experiment. Oh - do be sure to always make clean cuts with a bypass (not anvil type) pruner.
http://www.hort.purdue.edu/ext/ho-23.pdf

Impatiens 2014? Don't do it!

If your impatiens were affected by downy mildew in 2012-2013, you are not alone. Gardeners throughout the country shared your experience. The following discusses  the disease and explains what can be done to have a more successful garden this season.  Better not to plant impatiens in 2014 just to be safe.

 What is it?

Downy mildew is a devastating disease that can spread by air and by the ‘splashing’ of spores due to rain and overhead watering. It is prevalent across the country and can come from any number of places.

Downy Mildew

What are the symptoms?

Early symptoms include yellowing or stippling of the leaves or a white, downy-like color on the underside of the leaves as well as stunting of growth. Advanced symptoms include a grayish, fuzzy substance on leaves and stems. Leaf and flower drop will eventually result in bare, leafless stems.

How did I get it?

Downy mildew is a water mold. The disease spreads most commonly when the foliage stays wet for extended periods of time and there are cool night temperatures and moist conditions. Therefore areas of deep shade, beds that receive overhead watering and densely planted beds are more highly susceptible to downy mildew. T

What if I get it?

Once the disease is identified remove all of the plants and plant debris (leaves, flowers, etc.) from soil and containers. Spores can overwinter in the plant debris so the removal is imperative to help limit future spread. It is not recommended to plant impatiens in that location for several years. Chemical treatments are not recommended as most are ineffective.

Impatiens before downy mildew appears.

What about New Guinea Impatiens?

Downy mildew only affects impatiens walleriana. New Guinea impatiens have proven to be highly tolerant to the disease.

What else can I plant?

There are many other beautiful flowering plants that thrive in shade:

Begonia

Browallia

Caladium

Coleus

Fuscia

Lobelia

Euphorbia

Fuscia

Nemesia

New Guinea Impatiens

Oxalis

Perilla

Torenia

 

Patrick

When to work your Soil in the spring

When to Work Soil for Spring Planting??  Patience is a virtue.

As soon as the first buds begin to appear after a long brutal winter like the one we just had, gardeners everywhere begin to think about soil preparation and spring planting. Spring may be in the air, but it is still too early to begin working the soil. Working the soil too soon causes more damage than good in the garden.

I am more anxious than anyone for Spring to arrive here in Eastchester.  Brenda and I are already dreaming of all the fresh cool weather veggies we will plant.  However, timing and patience is critical.  Preparing the soil for spring planting is one of the first tasks after the snow melts, but working the soil before it is ready is a big mistake. Wet soil, (snow drenched), compacts easily breaking down the soil structure and causing lasting damage. Once compacted, it can take two years of working to return the soil to a healthy consistency. Plants love loose, rich soil. Compacted, heavy soils slow plant growth.

Test soil consistency before doing anything!

Test the soil consistency in the spring after the ground begins to thaw.  Scoop up a handful of soil from the garden bed. Make a loose ball -- about the size of a tennis ball -- by rolling it between your hands. If the soil ball forms a dense ball, the soil is still to wet to work. When the soil is ready, a ball will crumble between your hands.  Everyone's garden soil will be ready at a slightly different time, I will let you know when mine is ready!

 

 

Patrick bringing back the Spring to Nature's Cradle...I hope!

Hi Friends!  The staff here at Nature's Cradle will be contributing personal stories as well as valuable gardening information. I just returned from surfing in Ecuador, where I found a great point break at a little fishing village 6 years ago.  I left my surfboard with some little friends back then who have now become great surfers.  The picture above is of those kids back then.

I guess I picked a great winter to escape NY.  We have had damage here at the nursery, but will be ready to roll when the weather warms a bit. Also, unfortunately, my dog Milly has suffered a stroke.  She has lost much of her vitality and mental ability.  The following surf adventure story is a tribute to Milly.  I hope you enjoy it. 

I was camping in a lean-to I had built near the long left point break in the bay of Mompiche,  Ecuador the night my dog Milly saved my life.
Mompiche is a tiny fishing village on the northern pacific coast near enough to the border with Columbia to be talked about as "dangerous", and "not worth the risk visiting" in the typical tourist guide books. It is a lawless region where kidnappings and armed robberies are frequent enough that the locals don't even consider them worthy of remark anymore. The city of Atacames, a short bus-ride to the north, is the worlds largest market for black market human organs. This remote bay is definitely not worth visiting....unless of course, you surf.

The 800m long left point break is powerful and tubular, and does not section as you ride the workable wave racing into the calm bay. For a surfer like me that was all I paid attention to when people talked about Mompiche. I was at Canoa about 200 km south of Mompiche's legendary left. I was with my dog and my bicycle with trailer and surfboard in tow.

I decided to try to hitch or catch a bus to Perdaneles about 100km to the north and then ride along the beach to a small fishing village where I knew I could take a small boat across a large estuary towards Mompiche, thus cutting off a large section of roadway. This was the plan anyway.
 Finally I found a reasonable bus driver who would allow me to put my dog on the bus...but only on the roof. I agreed, so long as he would allow me to ride up there with all my other gear. So I rode for about 2 hours on crazy winding pot-holed roads. 50km per hour in a car seems slow, but on the roof of a bus it feels pretty damn fast. I held Milly with a death-grip. She just would not sit still. I had on hand on the bus and one hand around Milly's collar and my feet wedged in to the roof-rack for leverage. It was one hell of a ride! After all that waiting I had finally caught  huge ride...and this one I would end up riding all the way to the bay of Mompiche in a few different sections that all connected up beautifully.

 We pulled into Perdanales and Milly jumped off the roof of the bus and head first into a large dresser on the street. The bus drive just shouted "Ella es duro".. "She is hard!" and I handed him 5 dollars. I was so happy to have gotten this far that I was prepared to cycle the 40km north along the beach to make the boat across the estuary sometime the next day. But first I wanted to grab some food in town.

As I was pulling my bicycle/trailer contraption up to a restaurant a local kid saw me and my surf-board and asked where I was headed. He told me that an "El Rancho", a sort of Mad-Max
4 wheel drive vehicle that has open air seats for 30 people, was heading along the beach in my direction all the way to the village were I could catch the boat towards Mompiche. I had to hurry to the center of the town because it was leaving in 3 minutes and was the only one heading out there that day. As I hurried to get all my gear onto this rig he shouted "Remember, do not try to get into Mompiche after dark.... Es muy peligroso! (It is very dangerous) They will rob you of all the gear you have!" I thought to myself that nobody would rob me, and if they did they wouldn't be happy about it.

In addition to my large Old English Sheepdog Milly, I have a Kerambit ( a hooked bladed that fits onto your fist...imagine a brass fist but with a beautiful pointed blade that is razor sharp on both sides and has jagged hooks near the hilt), and an S.O.G. small dagger. And I have a willingness and mental preparedness to fight, as well as some martial training (maybe just enough to get myself into trouble as they say). Anyway, my initial mental reaction to this local's warning was "Bring it on, Banditos."

While riding the Mad-Max vehicle along the deserted beach road with all the Ecuadorian campesinos wondering what the hell I was doing on their rig with my bike, dog and surfboard the sky opened up and it started to pour. Mud flew everywhere as we bounced along and I was
thrilled to have made it to the village...hoping to make it to Mompiche this evening and to be in the water the next morning at sun-up.

 After crossing the estuary, which ran several km, the fisherman dropped me off on this long stretch of deserted beach...it was as far as he would go. I asked him how to get to Mompiche, and he just pointed North and said to ride along the beach. So I rode for about an hour as the sun slowly drifted towards the seaward horizon. Finally, I saw a few kids running towards me along
he beach...I just rode faster, not wanting to be bothered and wanting to get to Mompiche to set-
up my camp before dark.

 The kids were from the town of Portrete which is a about 5km from Mompiche. At this point I had to turn from the beach and get on the inland dirt road. I rode through the tiny village of wooden shacks and came upon a small slow moving river. It was only about 100 yards across and looked about 4-5 ft deep. On the near bank stood a lean dark-skinned man with a canoe who said that he'd take me and all my gear across for a dollar. I didn't have any small bills on me...and he couldn't break a twenty...so I traded him some fruit that I had bought in Perdaneles and he set me down nice and dry on the far bank.

I rode the last few km into the bay of Mompiche just as the sky darkened. I set up my camp without incident and slept deep, dreaming of tubular waves.

 I woke early, drank tea, ate some oatmeal and was the first surfer in the water at the point. For
he next 2 weeks I was the first surfer in the water each and every day. The second surfer in
he water was a 50 year old American named Ron from New Jersey. He was renting a cabin with some other North American friends. Ron was the most passionate surfer in their group and we got along well right from the first. Ron and his crew spoke no Spanish, and were paying decent money ($7 per night) to stay in those cabins by the point. They were the most noticeable people in the village...and certain people did take notice quietly.

 I was camping about 50 yards from Ron's cabin in a large lean-to I had build with long bamboo shoots and fallen palm fronds. The shelter was about 8 ft high and triangular shaped with an covered area of about 75 square feet. It kept me, Milly, and all my gear dry during the nightly rains, and cool and shaded during the heat of the day. Because my camp was set back on the beach near the edge of the jungle, and built from the jungle itself, it was difficult to see during the day and impossible to see at night. I was tucked into a hidden campsite only meters from an awesome wave. Apart from the ridiculous number of mosquitoes, I was in heaven.

 After about two weeks of surfing and hanging out I became quite friendly with the North Americans....especially Ron. We surfed the point together daily, shared stories and surf-wax during the off-tides, and ate dinner together just about every-night. This may explain why I did what I did that night, but honestly I do not know. I just reacted and I was not really thinking...had I been thinking, things probably would have turned out very differently.

It was a hot sticky night in the jungle and the mosquitoes were feasting on all exposed flesh. In fact, these bastards were biting right through clothing. So I laid in my tent in my boxers, sweating. I tried to ignore the itching of the mosquito bites, and fell into short un-easy dreams.

 I awoke from one to hear some banging around coming from Ron's cabin. I was startled, but thought maybe there was just some rowdy partying going on. Then I heard a woman scream, the wife of one of Ron's friends. I put my head-lamp on and grabbed my two blades and ran over wearing nothing but my boxers. Milly followed silently. As my bare feet sank into the soft sand I imagined I would surprise a couple local fisherman attempting to rob my friends of a few valuables. I figured I would scare them off with my knives and my dog and some screaming in Spanish. And worse case scenario I knew I could handle myself in a knife fight.

 I crept onto the porch and peeked through the doorway to see one buddy hog-tied with duct tape over his mouth. At that instant I thought perhaps I was in for more than I thought...perhaps I was in a bit too deep. The next second someone behind me is speaking in Spanish and telling me to put down my weapons. I spin around into a fighting stance with my blades poised for action.

Then I notice the pistol in his hand and hear him screaming "Quieres morrir?", "Do you want to die?". It is at this point that I know for certain that I am in too deep.

 I had the idea that the gunman did not want to shoot me...assuming that if he had wanted to, he would have already done so. I also thought that if I struck towards him with my blades he wold shoot me out of instinctual animal fear. I would not lower my weapons and I would not strike at him. We were at a stand-off.

 I just started screaming in Spanish "Que haces con mis amigos?" "What are you doing with my friends?" And "Nadie aqui va a morrir!", "Nobody here is going to die!" I was trying to attract attention and take the initiative away from the gunman. I knew that even though this man had a gun, I would not let him take charge. I would not do what this person said. He could have shot me, but I never felt at any point that I would have taken orders from him.

 After a few seconds of this shouting, a second bandito ran out of the cabin and onto the porch...also wielding a pistol. Now I had two guns on me. The second gunman pushed a chair towards me and told me to sit down. I shoved the chair back at him at yelled "No me tocas" Don't touch me! But I could feel that the situation was deteriorating rapidly. Now I had to keep switching my gaze and posturing to keep both enemies at bay.

 Then the other four banditos in this gang ran out onto the porch all carrying machettes. They began to close in quickly and I just kept yelling in Spanish "No me tocas". One of the machette wielding baditos grabbed the empty rum bottle off the table on the porch and broke it over my head, at the same time the first pistol wielding bandito hit the dagger out of my hand. I remained conscious...maybe because of all the adrenaline pumping...then I felt another immediate blow to my ribs as another bandito hit me with another empty rum bottle.

 So I was down to one blade, the Kerambit, which because of its design can only be removed from the bearer's hand by the cutting of the thumb. I slashed one large arc into the gang moving in towards me. This created an opening which I ran through, screaming as loudly in an attempt to attract as much attention as possible. I heard the leader yell for the other bandit with the pistol to chase me...so I ran fast through the dark, dodging bushes and rocks in the sand...then I realized that the headlamp I was wearing made a great target so I shut it off and kept running, still screaming. I made it to the cabin of the woman who managed the cabins and as I rounded the corner I hid behind her truck and found a crate of empty beer bottles there. I started throwing them at the approaching headlamp...that was all I could see. I am not sure if I hit him in the face, but I sure hope I did.

 At this moment the woman began screaming and coming to open her door and the bandito stopped chasing...I don't know if it was her voice or broken glass in his eyes that caused him to break off his chase. At that time I did not really care.

 Maria, the manager of the cabins, looked at me through a crack in the door and would not at first let me inside. I had blood on my head and a sick looking blade in my hand, and I am sure I had a crazy look in my eyes. She eventually let me in and I told her to call the police. There were no police to call. The nearest police were in Atacames about 2 hours drive during daylight...nobody drove those roads at night. As it would turn out, even the police from Atacames did not come the next day, nor would they ever come. It was after all just a bunch of gringos who got attacked, no big deal. Maria did call the owner of the cabins who eventually sent his servant about an hour later with a shot-gun with only one bullet in it.

 After a few moments I realized that Maria was not going to be of much help. I walked back to Ron's cabin because it seemed that the banditos had fled. I returned to find my dog Milly with a huge gash in her head from a machete chop. She remained silently stoic as I sowed her wound closed. I know she sank her teeth into a couple banditos. Regardless, she wears her scar proudly.

 All that night we gringos sat on the porch, still wired. I did not sleep at all. Ron said my antics had caused such a distraction that all of the banditos were forced to deal with me on the porch. Meanwhile, one friend dove out the back window right through the screen, and another dove headfirst off the porch with his hands still bound behind his back. Between these two crazy gringos, my disobedient screaming, and Milly's fangs, the banditos lost control and went running off into the jungle without having stolen anything.

 The sun rose. No police had arrived. We ate a bit of breakfast. No police arrived. The surf was good that morning and I was not about to let the asshole banditos from the night before ruin my session. So with a throbbing head and sore ribs I paddled out and surfed a great session. Screw' em. I refused to let them to control my actions last night and I refused to let them control my actions that morning. Those pistol wielding cowards would not take away my right to self determination.

 Eventually my wounded and exhausted body gave out and I rode a wave into the beach. Still no police had arrived. As I walked slowly back to my campsite I heard a local girl say to her friend in Spanish, "Oh, did you hear the Gringos were attacked last night?" The other girl simply shrugged. I decided right then to get the hell out of Mompiche. Ron and I split town before lunch. We landed at another beach a few hours south to surf some fantastic beach break before sun-set. Milly rested her head at my feet as I slept that night.

She had quite possibly saved my life...which makes us even, because a few years back I had saved her life in the mountains.